The blue cities of Morocco

When we talk about the blue city of Morocco there is talk of Chefchaouen, nestled in the Rif and painted indigo from top to bottom. But there are four others where blue also makes an appearance.

Here’s what to see in each one and, above all, The truth about why Chefchaouen is blue, which is not what is usually said.

Chefchaouen, the Blue Pearl

His official nickname is «The Blue Pearl». It is at 564 metres above sea level, has about 46,000 inhabitants and lies nestled between two mountains in the Rif, the Meggú and the Tisouka.

That’s where the name comes from: Chefchaouen means «the horns», because of the outline of those two peaks as seen from the valley.

It was founded in 1471 —mind you, the erroneous date of 1741 is widely circulated— as a stronghold to halt the Portuguese advance, and it became a refuge for Muslims and Jews expelled from al-Andalus, who brought with them Nasrid architecture and craftsmanship.

It was a forbidden city for centuries

This is the fact that hardly anyone mentions. Chefchaouen was considered sacred city and he had Foreigners barred from entering. Anyone who tried it was risking their life.

The first person to achieve this was the explorer Charles de Foucauld, in 1882, dressed as a rabbi. The city didn’t really open up until Spanish Protectorate, in 1920, and remained under Spanish administration until 1956.

This isolation explains why its medina retains a medieval atmosphere that others have lost.

And now, why is it blue?

The honest answer is that we don’t know for certain, and one should be wary of anyone who asserts this categorically.

What the older neighbours do say It is revealing: The medina was white. The blue was concentrated in the Mellah, the Jewish quarter, and it spread to the rest of the city relatively recently.

There are several explanations for the origin of the colour blue in the Mellah, none of which have been proven:

• Religious symbolism. In Jewish tradition, blue represents the sky and closeness to God. It is often associated with refugees who have arrived in the 1930s fleeing Europe, although the Sephardic community had been living here since 1492.
• Mosquitoes. The locals claim that the colour blue keeps them away, and they still stand by this view today.
• The coolness. Which helps to keep homes cool in summer.
• The distinction. This was to distinguish it from green, a colour associated with Islam.

And today’s explanation is an economic one: Keeping it blue and repainting it every year is what sustains tourism, which is the village’s main source of income.

A note on the photo: contrary to what is reported, Not all houses are blue. There are stretches of white and ochre, particularly away from the tourist trail.

The Legend of Vejer

Tradition has it that Ali Ben Rachid married Zhora, a young woman from Vejer de la Frontera went into exile with him following the Reconquista, and that She built the city in the likeness of her own village to ease his homesickness.

Whether it’s true or not, anyone who’s been to Vejer will recognise the atmosphere.

What to see in the medina

• Uta el-Hammam Square, the social hub, with its terraces where you can enjoy a cup of tea.
• The Kasbah, the founding strength of the 15th century —not from the 18th century, as is sometimes claimed—, with Andalusian gardens, an ethnographic museum and a tower offering views over the rooftops.
• The Great Mosque, recognisable by its octagonal minaret, which is unusual in Morocco. It is not open to non-Muslims, but it forms part of the scene.
• Ras el-Maa, the spring where the local women still wash their clothes, just outside the medina.
• The Seven Gates of the city wall, which are now wide open.

Go first thing. The light is better and the streets are empty; by mid-morning, the main thoroughfare fills up.

The surrounding area: Akchour and Talassemtane

About 30 kilometres are the Akchour Waterfalls, with routes of varying difficulty: a short one to the big waterfall and a longer one to the God’s Bridge, a natural rock arch. In summer, you can go for a swim in the pools.

And the city looks out over the Talassemtane National Park, with fir forests and ravines. For long walks, a local guide.

The other four in blue

None of them is blue from start to finish. In all of them, blue features on doors, skirting boards and decorative details, combined with white.

Tétouan, the White Dove

His nickname is «The White Dove», precisely because of its whitewashed exterior, against which the blue doors and windows stand out. Its Medina is a World Heritage Site and retains the Andalusian influence of the Moriscos expelled from Granada, which has also earned it the name of «the daughter of Granada».

It is the most authentic in the north and the least overrun by tourists. In what to see in Tetouan y the eight gates of its medina.

Asilah

An Atlantic coastal village with Portuguese walls overlooking the sea. White is the dominant colour, whilst blue features in the frames and skirting boards.

Its hallmark is its murals: Every summer, the International Cultural Festival It brings in artists to repaint the walls of the medina, so the city’s appearance changes from one year to the next.

Tangier

Blue features on doors, staircases and individual façades in the medina, though not as uniformly as in Chefchaouen. It’s the gateway from Spain and offers enough to see for several days: you’ll find it in What to see in Tangier.

Rabat

The capital retains its little blue corner in the Kasbah of the Udayas, a walled neighbourhood overlooking the Atlantic where blue and white dominate the facades in the northern style. It is the most photogenic part of the city.

All around are the Hassan Tower and the Mausoleum of Mohammed V. A note: Rabat was under French protectorate, not Spanish, so its colonial architecture stems from that heritage.

How to get there and when to go

• From Spain: ferry to Tangier or Ceuta, and from there to Chefchaouen by road in two or three hours.
• By bus: There are regular services from Tangier, Tetouan and Fez.
• Best time of year: spring and autumn. It’s a mountain village with lots of steep slopes, and in summer it can be tiring at midday. Winter is cool and rainy, but you can enjoy it without having to queue.

Before crossing, look how to travel to Morocco from Spain y Is it safe to travel at the moment?.

Trips to northern Morocco

We are a local operator based in Málaga with over 50 years’ experience organising trips around Andalusia and northern Morocco. The day trip crosses the Strait and includes the ferry, a guide and lunch:

And for the journey, Moroccan sweets, traditional drinks y what to buy. The entire destination, in The Morocco Guide.

Frequently asked questions

Which is Morocco’s blue city?

Chefchaouen, in the Rif Mountains, also known as Chaouen and nicknamed «the Blue Pearl». It is the only town whose old quarter is painted blue from top to bottom. Other Moroccan cities have patches of indigo blue – Tetouan, Asilah, Tangier and the Kasbah of the Udayas in Rabat – but these are always found on doors and decorative details, combined with white.

Why is Chefchaouen blue?

It is not known for certain, and one should be wary of categorical answers. What the older residents say is that the medina used to be white and that the blue was confined to the Mellah, the Jewish quarter, having spread to the rest of the city only relatively recently. There are several theories as to its origin: the symbolism of the sky in Jewish tradition, the belief that it keeps mosquitoes away, the coolness it provides in summer, or the desire to distinguish it from the green of Islam. Today it is maintained because it supports tourism.

When was Chefchaouen founded?

In 1471, by Moulay Ali Ben Rachid, as a fortress to halt the Portuguese advance. The incorrect date of 1741 is often cited. The city was settled by Muslims and Jews expelled from al-Andalus, who brought with them the Nasrid architecture and craftsmanship that still characterise it today.

Is it true that foreigners were banned from entering?

Yes. Chefchaouen was regarded as a sacred city and barred access to foreigners for centuries. The first person to gain entry was the explorer Charles de Foucauld, in 1882, disguised as a rabbi. The city did not truly open up until 1920, with the Spanish Protectorate, under which it remained until 1956. This isolation explains why its medina retains a medieval feel.

How do you get to Chefchaouen from Spain?

Cross the Strait by ferry to Tangier or Ceuta and continue by road for two or three hours. There are also regular buses from Tangier, Tetouan and Fez. If you’d rather not organise your own transport, a guided tour from southern Spain takes care of the ferry, the formalities and the route.

When is the best time to visit Chefchaouen?

Spring and autumn. It is a mountain village at an altitude of 564 metres, with very steep streets, so midday in summer can be tough, even though the altitude tempers the heat. Winter is cool and rainy, but it has the advantage that there are hardly any tourists.