{"id":73969,"date":"2022-04-28T23:49:29","date_gmt":"2022-04-28T21:49:29","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/visitanddo_1790.test\/?p=73969"},"modified":"2026-09-30T22:05:02","modified_gmt":"2026-09-30T20:05:02","slug":"curiosities-from-setenil-de-las-bodegas","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/en\/curiosities-from-setenil-de-las-bodegas\/","title":{"rendered":"10 curiosities of Setenil de las Bodegas"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"product\"><div class=\"product\">\n<p>Setenil has <strong>2,700 inhabitants<\/strong> and more history per square metre than almost any other village in the mountains.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Ten things<\/strong> which explain why, giving specific names, dates and streets.<\/p>\n\n<h2>1. It took seven sieges to capture it<\/h2>\n<p><strong>That\u2019s where the name comes from.<\/strong> From Latin <em>septem nihil<\/em>, \u201cseven times nothing\u201d, referring to the seven failed Christian sieges.<\/p>\n<p><strong>It began with John II of Castile in 1402<\/strong> and it didn\u2019t fall until the <strong>21 September 1484<\/strong>, by the time of the Catholic Monarchs: <strong>eighty-two years of attempts<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p><strong>And this latest siege has a name:<\/strong> faced the <strong>Marquis of C\u00e1diz<\/strong> against <strong>Abu al-Qasim ibn Muhammad al-Kurdi<\/strong>, governor of the Nasrid fortress.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Why it was so difficult:<\/strong> The village is nestled in the river gorge, and the fortress was renowned for <strong>impregnable<\/strong>. Its fall, together with that of \u00c1lora, changed the course of the War of Granada.<\/p>\n\n<h2>2. The wine that gave him his surname<\/h2>\n<p><strong>\u00abDe las Bodegas\u00bb is not merely decorative.<\/strong> The caves and tunnels in the gorge, which maintain a stable temperature all year round, were used for centuries <strong>as wine cellars<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p><strong>It was phylloxera that destroyed the vineyard<\/strong>, the insect that ravaged Spain\u2019s vineyards <strong>in the late 19th century<\/strong>. The crops were replaced by olive trees and cereals, but the name remained.<\/p>\n<p><strong>And there\u2019s one last nod:<\/strong> local wine <strong>\u20187Mil Pasos\u2019<\/strong> refers to <em>ad septem milia<\/em>, \u00abseven Roman miles\u00bb, in homage to the vineyard\u2019s origins.<\/p>\n\n<h2>3. The houses are not carved out of the rock<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/P1090683-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"Houses beneath the rock in Setenil de las Bodegas\" class=\"wp-image-73967\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/P1090683-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/P1090683-600x400.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/P1090683-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/P1090683-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/P1090683-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/P1090683-18x12.jpg 18w, https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/P1090683.jpg 1620w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">The houses close in around the gap: the rock forms the roof.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>This is the most common misunderstanding.<\/strong> They are not cave dwellings carved out of the rock: <strong>the neighbours covered the natural shelters with a fa\u00e7ade<\/strong> which the river had carved out in the gorge. <strong>The rock is the roof<\/strong>, rather than a built structure.<\/p>\n<p><strong>The technical term is \u00absemi-troglodyte\u00bb<\/strong>, and the architecture is known as <strong>\u00abshelter beneath the rocks\u00bb<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p><strong>And it works:<\/strong> generates a <strong>natural microclimate<\/strong> which keeps the interior cool in summer and warm in winter.<\/p>\n<p><strong>The river has two names<\/strong>, just in case you get confused: <strong>Guadalporc\u00fan<\/strong>, also known as <strong>Trejo River<\/strong>. It\u2019s the same one.<\/p>\n<p><strong>The oldest surviving house<\/strong> It is in the neighbourhood of <strong>San Benito<\/strong>, next to its chapel, and dates from the <strong>XVIth century<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n<h2>4. It became independent from Ronda in 1630<\/h2>\n<p><strong>Following the conquest, Setenil came under the jurisdiction of Ronda<\/strong>, and he didn\u2019t like it.<\/p>\n<p>The village had a significance all of its own: <strong>church, hospital and even a seminary<\/strong>, something not all the residents of the mountainous region could say. After <strong>numerous lawsuits<\/strong>, gained independence <strong>by a royal decree signed in 1630<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p><em>Before that, during the Muslim period, the fortress was called <strong>Xatanil<\/strong> and was part of the <strong>Cora of Takurunna<\/strong>, with its capital in Ronda.<\/em><\/p>\n\n<h2>5. \u00abKiss me in this corner\u00bb<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/Excursion-a-Setenil-de-las-Bodegas-2-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"A corner of Calle Herrer\u00eda in Setenil de las Bodegas\" class=\"wp-image-72242\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/Excursion-a-Setenil-de-las-Bodegas-2-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/Excursion-a-Setenil-de-las-Bodegas-2-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/Excursion-a-Setenil-de-las-Bodegas-2-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/Excursion-a-Setenil-de-las-Bodegas-2-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/Excursion-a-Setenil-de-las-Bodegas-2-16x12.jpg 16w, https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/Excursion-a-Setenil-de-las-Bodegas-2.jpg 1440w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">The corner of Calle Herrer\u00eda.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Look for it on Calle Herrer\u00eda.<\/strong> There\u2019s a wall with that phrase painted on it, and it reads <strong>the spot where all the couples have their photo taken<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p><strong>And there is a legend that gives it depth:<\/strong> It is said that <strong>Isabel la Cat\u00f3lica gave birth to a boy during the siege<\/strong>, who died a few hours later. His name was <strong>Sebasti\u00e1n<\/strong>, and that is why the village\u2019s first church was dedicated to <strong>San Sebasti\u00e1n<\/strong>, now the patron saint of Setenil.<\/p>\n\n<h2>6. *Curro Jim\u00e9nez* was filmed here<\/h2>\n<p><strong>Cabrerizas Street is featured on television.<\/strong> That\u2019s where the episode was filmed <strong>\u00abThe Servant of Justice\u00bb<\/strong> from <strong>Curro Jim\u00e9nez<\/strong>, the TVE series which was broadcast between <strong>1976 and 1979<\/strong> starring Sancho Gracia, Pepe Sancho and \u00c1lvaro de Luna.<\/p>\n<p><strong>And that wasn\u2019t the only film shoot:<\/strong> the film <strong>\u00abLa Sabina\u00bb, by Jos\u00e9 Luis Borau<\/strong>, used the <strong>Jaboner\u00eda Street<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p><em>There is no certainty as to the origin of the street\u2019s name: some say there used to be a soap factory there, whilst others say that women used to go down there to wash their clothes.<\/em><\/p>\n\n<h2>7. Three routes, one of which leads to a Roman town<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>The Bandits\u2019 Trail.<\/strong> The best known, and <strong>links Setenil with the Roman ruins of Acinipo<\/strong>, now in M\u00e1laga. The race passes through it <strong>101 Kil\u00f3metros de Ronda race<\/strong>.<\/li>\n<li><strong>The Mills Trail.<\/strong> Low difficulty, with the <strong>Molinilla Waterfall<\/strong>.<\/li>\n<li><strong>The Trejo River escarpments.<\/strong> Rock faces, ravines and the waterfall at the <strong>Bat\u00e1n Mill<\/strong>.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>A bit of background:<\/strong> The village has its origins in a farming and livestock settlement <strong>following the decline of Acinipo<\/strong>, in the 4th century. The route literally links the past with the present.<\/p>\n\n<h2>8. A patron saint of the sea, 157 kilometres from the coast<\/h2>\n<p><strong>Our Lady of Mount Carmel is the patron saint of sailors<\/strong>, and here it has its own chapel at <strong>640 metres above sea level<\/strong> and a long way from the sea.<\/p>\n<p><strong>The explanation is a promise:<\/strong> in the <strong>17th century<\/strong>, the <strong>the Cabrales brothers<\/strong> they got into serious trouble on a trip to America and <strong>promised to build a chapel in her honour if they returned alive<\/strong>. They came back and built it.<\/p>\n\n<h2>9. Los Blancos versus Los Negros<\/h2>\n<p><strong>It\u2019s nothing like it looks:<\/strong> are <strong>the two brotherhoods<\/strong> of the <strong>Holy Week in Setenil, declared an Event of Tourist Interest<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Los Blancos<\/strong> they take the <strong>Christ of Veracruz<\/strong> and to <strong>Our Lady of Sorrows<\/strong>.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Los Negros<\/strong>, a <strong>Father Jes\u00fas<\/strong> and to the <strong>Our Lady of Solitude<\/strong>.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>And this rivalry has a specific focus:<\/strong> <strong>marching bands<\/strong> that accompany each image. That\u2019s where prestige comes into play.<\/p>\n\n<h2>10. Europe\u2019s best-kept secret destination<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/Excursion-a-Setenil-de-las-Bodegas-1-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"A view of Setenil de las Bodegas\" class=\"wp-image-73968\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/Excursion-a-Setenil-de-las-Bodegas-1-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/Excursion-a-Setenil-de-las-Bodegas-1-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/Excursion-a-Setenil-de-las-Bodegas-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/Excursion-a-Setenil-de-las-Bodegas-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/Excursion-a-Setenil-de-las-Bodegas-1-16x12.jpg 16w, https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/Excursion-a-Setenil-de-las-Bodegas-1.jpg 1440w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Two awards:<\/strong> at <strong>2019<\/strong> entered the <strong>Association of the Most Beautiful Villages of Spain<\/strong>, and <strong>European Best Destinations<\/strong> chose him <strong>Europe\u2019s best-kept secret destination<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p><strong>The whole \u00absecret\u00bb thing no longer holds water:<\/strong> It is one of the most popular \u2018white villages\u2019, and during the high season the Cuevas del Sol are packed.<\/p>\n\n<h2>What to eat<\/h2>\n<p><strong>Three mountain dishes that really are from here:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Cortijera soup:<\/strong> bread, olive oil, asparagus and a hard-boiled egg.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Rabbit, Serrana-style.<\/strong><\/li>\n<li><strong>Tuna with onions.<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>And for breakfast, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/desayunar-en-setenil\/\">breakfast in Setenil<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n<h2>See the village<\/h2>\n<p><strong>You can walk around the town centre in a few hours<\/strong>: It leads down from the castle to the river gorge, so it\u2019s all downhill on the way there.<\/p>\n<p><strong>The essentials:<\/strong> the streets <strong>Cuevas del Sol<\/strong> and <strong>Cuevas de la Sombra<\/strong>, the <strong>Keep<\/strong> \u2014from the 13th century\u2014, the <strong>Church of the Incarnation<\/strong> and the <strong>San Sebasti\u00e1n Chapel<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p>The full itinerary, at <a href=\"https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/que-ver-en-setenil-de-las-bodegas\/\">What to see in Setenil de las Bodegas<\/a> and in <a href=\"https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/setenil-de-las-bodegas\/\">the village guide<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n<h2>Travelling from M\u00e1laga<\/h2>\n<p>We are a local tour operator based in M\u00e1laga with over 50 years\u2019 experience organising trips around Andalusia. <strong>Setenil is 18 kilometres from Ronda<\/strong>, so it\u2019s normal to do both on the same day:<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n<p><strong>With pick-ups in M\u00e1laga and on the Costa del Sol.<\/strong> The other villages in the mountains, in <a href=\"https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/ruta-de-los-pueblos-blancos-desde-ronda\/\">The White Villages Route from Ronda<\/a>, and the starting point of the route is at <a href=\"https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/que-ver-en-ronda\/\">What to see in Ronda<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/en\/bridge-new-ronda\/\">the New Bridge<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n<h2>Frequently asked questions<\/h2>\n\n<h3>Why is it called Setenil de las Bodegas?<\/h3>\n<p>\u00abSetenil\u00bb derives from the Latin septem nihil, \u00abseven times nothing\u00bb, in reference to the seven Christian sieges that failed prior to the conquest of 1484. The surname \u00abde las Bodegas\u00bb alludes to the area\u2019s wine-growing past: the caves carved into the cliff face, with their stable temperature, were used for centuries as wine cellars. Phylloxera wiped out the vineyard in the late 19th century, but the name has remained.<\/p>\n\n<h3>Are the houses in Setenil carved out of the rock?<\/h3>\n<p>No, and that is the most common misconception. The locals built a fa\u00e7ade to enclose the natural shelters that the River Guadalporc\u00fan \u2014also known as the River Trejo\u2014 had carved out in the gorge, so that the rock acts as a roof. They are known as semi-troglodyte dwellings and their architecture as \u00abshelter beneath the rocks\u00bb. The result is a microclimate that keeps the interior cool in summer and mild in winter.<\/p>\n\n<h3>When was Setenil de las Bodegas conquered?<\/h3>\n<p>On 21 September 1484, during the seventh siege. Attempts to capture the city had begun in 1402 under John II of Castile, meaning that the resistance lasted eighty-two years. The final assault pitted the Marquis of C\u00e1diz against Abu al-Qasim ibn Muhammad al-Kurdi, the governor of the Nasrid fortress, and its fall proved decisive in the War of Granada.<\/p>\n\n<h3>When did Setenil cease to be part of Ronda?<\/h3>\n<p>In 1630, by royal decree, following numerous legal disputes. Until then, the municipality had been incorporated into the jurisdiction of Ronda following the conquest of 1484, despite having its own church, hospital and seminary.<\/p>\n\n<h3>Which TV series or films were filmed in Setenil?<\/h3>\n<p>TVE\u2019s series *Curro Jim\u00e9nez* filmed the episode \u00abEl servidor de la justicia\u00bb on Calle Cabrerizas. Jos\u00e9 Luis Borau\u2019s film *La Sabina* was also filmed there, on Calle Jaboner\u00eda. The silhouette of the houses against the rock face has made this a recurring filming location.<\/p>\n\n<h3>Why is the Virgin of Carmen the patron saint of Setenil?<\/h3>\n<p>Because in the 17th century, the Cabrales brothers, finding themselves in dire straits during a voyage to the Americas, vowed to build a chapel in her honour if they returned alive. 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Until then, the municipality had been incorporated into the jurisdiction of Ronda following the conquest of 1484, despite having its own church, hospital and seminary.\"}},{\"@type\":\"Question\",\"name\":\"Which TV series or films were filmed in Setenil?\",\"acceptedAnswer\":{\"@type\":\"Answer\",\"text\":\"TVE\u2019s series *Curro Jim\u00e9nez* filmed the episode \u00abEl servidor de la justicia\u00bb on Calle Cabrerizas. Jos\u00e9 Luis Borau\u2019s film *La Sabina* was also filmed there, on Calle Jaboner\u00eda. The silhouette of the houses against the rock face has made this a recurring filming location.\"}},{\"@type\":\"Question\",\"name\":\"Why is the Virgin of Carmen the patron saint of Setenil?\",\"acceptedAnswer\":{\"@type\":\"Answer\",\"text\":\"Because in the 17th century, the Cabrales brothers, finding themselves in dire straits during a voyage to the Americas, vowed to build a chapel in her honour if they returned alive. They kept their promise, and so a village situated at an altitude of 640 metres and 157 kilometres from the coast came to have as its patron saint the traditional patron of sailors.\"}}]}]}<\/script>\n<\/div><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Setenil has 2,700 inhabitants and more history per square metre than almost any other village in the mountains. Ten things which explain why, giving specific names, dates and streets. 1. It took seven sieges to capture it That\u2019s where the name comes from. From Latin septem nihil, \u201cseven times nothing\u201d, referring to the seven failed [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":72239,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_eb_attr":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[664],"tags":[688],"class_list":["post-73969","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-visit-and-do","tag-setenil-de-las-bodegas"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/73969","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=73969"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/73969\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/72239"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=73969"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=73969"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.visitanddo.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=73969"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}